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Baked Garlic and Broiled Jalapeño Sauce

Sunday, July 19, 2020
Sam Sifton wrote this wonderful sentence in his Sunday column on cooking: "I'm not a line cook nor a chef, just a loving provider, trying to make what's available into something delicious for my family's meal." In the column he had also explained the similarity between a line cook and a home cook in terms of purpose in the kitchen as a brigade de cuisine. Both will look at the pantry (or the fridge), and following their food instincts plan in their heads the foundations of deliciousness by prepping the ingredients and making the sauces for tonight. Tomatillos, check. Flat-leaf parsley, check. Canned organic garbanzos, check. The cook notices a large lime, cuts it in half and juices them, check. A technique is then employed through the seasoning: Let's bake a head of garlic steeped in olive oil butter, all the while broiling the tomatillos and seeded, salted jalapeños together until the green skins are charred and the combined acids from the vegetables are caramelized in their sweetness and heat. The pasta water is boiling, too, and in goes the stems of parsley for herb-flavor absorption. The fresh ravioli-edged fettuccini is quick to achieve al dente, and so at the peak temperature, throw in the chickpeas to halt the moisture and seal in the bite. Love is in every step of this process because you are following it to your  stomach (at a professional restaurant the line cook is in charge of family meals, off menu, and the cook more than often would make something traditional from home, as if a home cook, and that's when their minds, the line and the home cook's, would meet). To lusciously coat the pasta with the garlic and jalapeño-tomatillo sauce (well, there is a bit of work to release the creamed garlic out of its head, and this is how: by laying the charred bulb on its side on the plate and with a fork holding it down and the knife scrapping the papery skin like a tube slowly releasing its allium paste as would ossu) is sure heaven. It is the same effect, that place in your heart when you're all done in the kitchen and feeding your loved ones happily around your table happily being fed. Summer is here in the central Pacific and the watermelons have bloomed.  This cold fruit quenches and satisfies toothsome following down its sweet juice after your love food. And this, too, shall provide for all your wants. 









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