Social icons

ODE TO PERSIMMON

Sunday, October 25, 2020

ODE TO PERSIMMON

In the dream Basho was under the persimmon tree, or was it Li Po, the Ming Dynasty poet and nature scholar, with his braided beard and itchy robe. But their faces resembled mine, eating the fruit for juice and replenishment sweet from a long journey on mule. The country trail that passed was winding around cosmos flowers and blue butterflies. And in a moment was frost. Hanging in the tree were persimmons like resplendent snowballs. I was patting my tired companion on his hair under the saddle. When Li Po woke up from a nap it was late autumn. The river was scenic with deciduous trees. Basho couldn’t resist bathing after writing about a water urn and cherry blossoms. Then I saw my reflection in the spring. And I floated away from the land of permissions on my back downstream. The country of Unju will have an elegy for me.     


🍅

ENDEMICAL FRUIT

Sunday, October 18, 2020

 


The salad to be discussed here has a particular singularity because of its use of the mabolo—  a rare fruit only found in the Philippine Islands, it is a type of peach crossed with permission (as a picture of it shows, googled), it is fuzzy skinned and has ribboned hard leaves on top, but the flavor is delicately distinct in sweetness rousing the palate for implacable description; it is after all indigenous to said country and endemic original nowhere else. Its taxonomic life , thankfully, is protected, and this one-of-a-kind tree species is safeguarded with strict harvesting control laws for sustainability. I consider myself one extremely lucky cook to have found this fruit on Maui— and therefore honorarily I must use for its most beautiful potentail. Again, there is neither tart/acidity nor bitterness to the fruit’s firm flesh on bite (like a Bartlett pear), and in reflection I had decided that it was going to be perfect with guavas, strawberries and some dandelion greens dressed in lime juice to coat, plus salt and pepper tossed, and all combined on a bed of local avocados perfectly sliced. The result is amazing, and it is to the credit of all the ingredients en masse hereby interconnected. On the side I had with the mabolo salad was a strong brown bread with European butter already in room temperature for ease of spread on the pan. I couldn’t ask for more.  

I remember this fruit growing up on a tropical farm (in my previous posts I had mentioned it was ancestral and traditionally designed as an orchid and tree nursery teeming with ornamental plants and palms, and my beloved grandfather was the master gardener and gourmand cook I considered my first teacher). It is located in the province of Laguna known as the fruit-growing region of the Philippines, also famous for its coconut pie and water buffalo artisanal milk and cheese. With Thailand, Singapore, Vietnam, Indonesia, all southeast asian countries sharing a common environmental latitude with the Philippines, boast fabulous fruits to their names such as the durian, rambutan, mangosteen, lanzones and atis, among others— yet the mabolo is prized for its individuality. It is true that the Philippines is geographically surrounded by the “seven seas” (like the Hawaiian Islands), and therefore the impact of several marine confluences at once to its coastlines, from an ecologic perspective of biodiversity nativism, uniqueness and exceptionality determine its species outcomes. (Similarly there are no poisonous snakes on Maui, the forests and the streams are “unwild” and it is an interesting anecdote that the mabolo, the legend says, too, was the last surviving “tree of knowledge” brought by paradise.) I am very proud my country’s food heritage. And one of them, to say the least, is a best kept secret. 

Purple Hang Town Fry

Sunday, October 11, 2020


The Heathman Hotel Restaurant in downtown Portland, Ore. has the best hang town fry breakfast in the city. The origin of this dish is Northern Cal., and it consists of oysters, eggs, onions and potatoes. It is presentably a scramble that is crisped on the outside like hash browns/frittata, yet its inside melts in the mouth because of the oyster’s slurp-slide texture. I used to work at The Heathman back when I was a grad student in writing at the nearby university (PSU). Sunday brunch folks loved ordering this dish with plain green salad as a side, and a requisite mimosa flute, and I remember sending the fry out table after table— and they killed it. Particular to the dish is its technique of mashing-chopping-folding up of ingredients on the griddle using two steel turner spatulas on either hand, and binding them together with one adjoined flip. It is quite a show, I think. (The fry, incidentally, is also a common street food in Thailand using pretty much the same inputs except the deletion of potatoes for strips of banana flowers, then doused with a sweet spicy sauce; the price is very, very cheap but the taste is very, very good.) The American version is just as delicious, and so I decided to make something similar for my Sunday. 

The Hawaiian sweet potato is color purple inside. I had baby Swiss chards and some fresh herbs (thyme, basil, oregano), brown eggs and garlic pita bread. (I precooked the sweet potato steamed tender and diced up chunks with skin-on, with a little salt and pepper, the day before.) Putting together my fry is pretty straightforward and fast: butter and olive oil in a hot pan, dropping minced stems of the chards and herbs until they sizzle and fragrant, add the sweet potatoes, stir nicely, then flourish the ribboned leaves of the chards on top for offset binding, mix, no special flipping technique necessary, cooked them quick together and fluently (five minutes tops). Toast pita and cut as you wish mindful of plate design and the ergonomic of eating (do you want to mop up the emulsion juice on the bottom of the plate, or make a bruschetta to pick the hash to the bread and finger food it?) Up to you, follow your appetite rituals. Lastly, don’t forget your glistening egg with a golden yolk; it must ooze and must be seasoned and flecked with red chili pepper flakes. Serve a l a Heathman-style (the hotel is a four-star boutique inn and the interior of the restaurant is a formal French bistro ambience). And then my fry is up.

As a long-time cook (and have been joyfully passionate about it), I use classic recipes, smart techniques and photogenic (often wistful) memories as a way to bring food on my table and delight on my palate. I’ve learned so much in Portland as a cook and urban gardener. We had happy (food) times there, and many friends to celebrate.        

 

LIME BELLINI

Sunday, October 4, 2020

For someone like me
The simple things
Like having toast or
Going to church are
Kept in one place. 

                                                            - John Ashbery


This is a virgin Sunday brunch cocktail. However, the fresh-squeezed lime juice is sharp enough to give the drink the tannin astringency mixed with plain sparkling water as if it were a champagne. The "cherry on top" was diluted to the juice to lend itself a sweetness aftertaste - all fresh-squeezed local fruits from Maui nui: guava, star fruit and tangerines, sifted through. For the main dish: braised carrots and cherry tomatoes with ravioli. In the poem Mr. Ashbery brings it home by saying the substance of this food combined is like wine and cheese. Not in the picture is a simple salad plate of sliced plum tomatoes and parsley - because, alas, the bread is already dripping with butter. I love the Moroccan tagine quality of the carrot-pasta braise chased with the refreshing-cleansing function of the bellini. (Foodnote: If you happen to be in New York City at some point for travel/business, you should check out Cafe Mogador in the E. Village. The restaurant is hip and the N. African/Mediterranean fare is heaven. I always get the fried okra and shallots tagine in dates, olives and chiles sauce. And the hummus-baba ganoush plate is divine and the warm pita is manna. An Oregon pinot noir is essential; ask your lovely server for a rec. The Morocs invented the tagine technique of cooking dried fruits and meat in a claypot over wood fire until all are braised tender and incorporated to the sublimity of the ingredients and spices, for a minimum three hours depending on the meat.) My rav is an homage to Mogador, my favorite restaurant, I have missed so much - and to the city itself, where I left my heart.     

Powered by Blogger.